The Chemical Technology Of Textile Fibres - Their Origin, Structure, Preparation, Washing, Bleaching, Dyeing, Printing And Dressing

PREFACE IN the present volume, dealing with the Chemical Technology of the Textile Fibres except as concerns the dye-stuffs, which will be treated in a separate work, the author has been obliged to con- dense the available matter as much as possible, in order to preserve the form of a text-book. Nevertheless, it seemed necessary, in certain cases, in the interests of the book, to give definite data and an exact description of individual processes. In such instances the details have been gathered exclusively either from the authors personal experience or from reliable sources. The most important part of the book is the chapter treating of dyeing, whilst, on the other hand, the subject of printing had to be dealt with in a more general fashion, the materials being less suitable for treatment in text-book style. The author thinks it desirable to point out that in the present work an attempt has been made to completely separate the chemical and mechanical technology of the subject, a standpoint he considers justified by the extensive area occupied by each of these branches. Hence only a few sketches of apparatus have been given and the methods of dressing the finished goods have been described very briefly, since they almost entirely belong to the domain of mechanical technology. The author is indebted to Prof. J. Zipser for the whole of the sketches given, and to Mr. C. Schimke, teacher of dyeing at the Koyal State Trade School, Bielitz, for much assistance in the production of the book. GEOEG VON GEOEGIEVICS Artificial Fibres . Mineral, , . Vegetable Cellulose..... Cotton . . . . Bombax Cotton .... Vegetable Silk .... ..... Flax .- . . ..... Hemp Jute Ramie, Rhea, China Grass, NettleFibre . TABLE OF CONTENTS CHAPTER L THE TEXTILE FIBRES Distinguishing Tests for the Various Fibres Animal Fibres .... Silk . . Animal Hairs . Sheeps Wool . Goat Wool and Camel Wool Artificial Wool Wool Substitutes Conditioning CHAPTER II. WASHING, BLEACHING, CARBONISING Washing and ..... Bleaching Definition Bleaching Agents ... Cotton-Bleaching . . ...... . . . PAGE iii 1 2 2 3 8 12 12 12 16 17 19 20 2-2 23 34 35 45 46 19 50 53 viii CONTENTS Linen-Bleaching . . . Ramie-Bleaching... Hemp-Bleaching... Jute-Bleaching . 76 Scouring and Bleaching Silk 77 Washing and Bleaching Wool ... 80 Blueing or White 86 Dyeing... Carbonising .... 87 CHAPTER III. MORDANTS AND MORDANTING Mordants..... 95 Mordanting Wool . ... 96 Mordanting Silk . . . . . . .98 Mordanting Cotton ....... 99 Alumina Mordants . . . . . . .102 Mordants........ Iron Mordants . . . . . . .,106 ........ Chrome 108 Tin Mordants 112 Copper and other Mordants . . . . . ...... .114 The Fixing Agents Acid Mordants 115 Tannic Acids ... . Oleic Acids . . . PAGE . . . . .116 - . . . . .122 CHAPTER IV. DYEING 1. Theory of Colour Combination of Colours Dyeing to Pattern . . 125 2. Theory of Dyeing . . . . . . 130 3. Classification of Dye-Stuffs Methods of Dyeing . . . ., 138 Application of Acid Dye-Stuffs . . . . Application of Basic v . Dye-Stuffs ., . . .- 143 Application of Direct or Substantive Cotton Dyes...... . Dyes . . 146 Application of the Mordant 154 Dyeing with Cochineal . . . . . .160 Dyeing with Catechu....... 178 Black and Blue Dyeings with Logwood on Wool . . . 163 Turkey-Red Dyeing . .. . -. . .172 Black-Dyeing Cotton with Logwood..... 180 ...